Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its profound food heritage and lively culinary scene," as stated by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and carts – hidden treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to learn these tales and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
